Saturday, February 15, 2025

My MahaKumbh Prayagraj Experience

 

Mahakumbh trip, Varanasi and Prayagraj  Jan 23-26th, 2025


Enough cannot be said about the Mahakumbh currently going on in Prayagraj. It all started with a bit of curiosity about 10 days back on Kumbh from a Vaastu person who said he was going there. Thanks to YouTube personalization, videos kept popping up on Mahakumbh and the significance.  Piqued my curiosity and I convinced Ramesh that we should go. This is once in 144 years and therefore once in our lifetime experience ! I checked out  a few places, but nothing was available. Then Mohanji’s video explaining the significance and the story of Shankaracharya  and the Kumbh popped up on my feed – towards the end he invites to come and stay in his village. Mohanji Village was available and we booked it.

Next was flight tickets which were exorbitant (or so we thought at that time). We booked from Bangalore to Varanasi, stay the night in Varanasi and next day drive to Prayagraj and return by the direct flight. And thus started our journey.

We left on 23rd and reached Varanasi and checked in to the Hotel Pearl Courtyard which was 100 m from the Kashi Viswanath temple. On the flight I told myself to go with the flow, whatever happens is meant to be, to not talk too much, to experience and not to do check box sightseeing. We had booked a Sugam darshan online at 3pm. Left the hotel at 245 ate a dosa at a corner shop and started towards gate No. 4 which was 100 m away. The road was absolutely packed with crowds thronging. On top of that bikes and vehicles were allowed on the road which made it even more difficult. A sea of humanity which gets pushed to the side every time a vehicle tried to pass. Made it to gate No. 4 and got inside the temple. Inside was well organized and quieter. We stood in the queue for an hour and had a 2 sec view of the lingam – I almost missed it. Felt blessed that the priest threw a garland which fell around my neck. We came out and meditated for a few minutes and then went towards Visalakshi temple. The road was narrow with shops on either side and quite dirty. There were inscriptions in tamil on the walls of the temple connecting the trio – Kanchi Kamakshi, Kasi Visalakshi, and Madurai Meenakshi. Getting out was a nightmare as there were crowds from all the roads trying to go in different directions. Made it out somehow and reached back the hotel at 6pm.

We sampled street food – the famous Malaiyo (available only 2 months of the year), Rabdi malai, samosa, tamatar chaat and spinach chaat. Cannot leave Varanasi without the famous Benarasi sarees – so bought some sarees and dresses in the opposite silk house

                The famous Malaiyo                     Hot Samosas                             Malai Rabdi

   

Strangely all this eating didn’t cause any problems to my stomach. Overall Varanasi streets are quite dirty and disorganized. The sounds, sights and smells are an assault on your senses. And can really bewilder you if you are not used to this.

Morning we left at 630 am - First mistake of leaving so late at 630 am. Stopped at Shakti Bhandar for breakfast which was the second mistake. Lot of traffic as we reached closer. People were walking from 15 kms before because buses were not allowed. However the vehicles were going in a disciplined manner – no honking, keeping to lanes with walkers on one side, bikes next and then the cars. People were walking this 15 kms in the hot sun, carrying their luggage and children while we were cribbing inside an AC car that it was taking so long to reach !

                                          Some views closer to Prayagraj

                               

We finally reached the Arail ghat point but the police were not allowing us through without a pass which we didn’t have. We resigned to walking the 4 km to Mohanji village but managed to get an auto to take us there. On the way saw the boats in the Ganges river going towards Sangam and somehow my heart felt full and excited.

Reached there at 2.30 and the first thing I see on walking is Shirdi Saibaba statue and hanuman and ganesha  and lingam statue. Felt happy as I pray to Saibaba and Anjaneya daily. A good sign ?

                 Saibaba temple at Mohanji Village          Ramesh, me and Jayanthi

                            

After a simple but wholesome lunch of chapathi, dhal, cabbage sabji and rice we dumped our luggage in the tent. The tents with attached bathrooms were decent. We left at 4pm to explore. There are multiple pontoon bridges that you cross to get to the other side. We were near the 26th one. We walked a lot taking in the sounds and reached a place where the evening aarthi was being done. Watched that and headed to lete hanuman temple but saw the huge queues there and decided to skip. Walked back and ended up doing 15 kms walking ! Very tiring and a lot of dust.

 Night view from the opposite side of the Ganges               Sunset on the Ganges



Amazing the number of people there at Kumbh, the number of tents, the number of spiritual campuses – this is the largest spiritual festival / gathering in the world. What drives people to withstand such harsh conditions to come here to take a dip – what faith drives these people. People are walking 15 to 20 km carrying bags, children, old people to reach this place. Staying in not so great conditions living on annadanam and vying to take a dip in the Holy Ganga.

On 25th woke up at 530, had a bath, attended the morning aarti and then the vishnu sahasranamam chanting and the rudram chanting. Meditated for some time and then had breakfast of idli chutney sambar which was excellent. I started to feel that we should go to Triveni Sangam earlier than later. We had told the boatman 3pm but called him to say we are coming earlier and left at 1 for the Sangam. Walked about 4 km of which we were lucky to get an auto for a km. Arail ghat was a huge crowd and we took some time to find the boat man.

                                                                                   Arail Ghat               


Good thing is life jackets were being provided and it was just 3 of us in the boat.  It took 45 mins to reach the Sangam in the middle of the river. Many boats heading out and returning – it was such a festive atmosphere. The air was vibrant and energetic and so many people taking a dip peacefully and happily, helping each other.

                                                    The Ganges and Yamuna joining point                                  


We could clearly see the Ganga and Yamuna joining points as one was green in colour and the other was brown in colour. The govt had organized floating platforms with changing rooms.  Our boatman manouevered the boat close as possible, almost back to back with other boats. The only words I can use is “organized chaos”. We jumped on each of the boats and reached the platform. Lot of people milling around getting into the water and changing. We left our bags and walked into the water through the platform on other side. Water was quite shallow and we walked about 100 ms before it came till knee level.

                                   

 
Water was very cold and it took me some time to splash it on myself and then put my head in. Managed 3 dips, one for myself and family, one for ancestors and one for the gurus. I was wondering how people were able to get into the water when it was so cold. Faith pushes them I think.

                                                       Jayanthi and me taking a dip in the Sangam      


We walked back and changed in the changing room and came back to the boat very refreshed.  Back to the shore by which time hair had dried nicely and then took  1 hour to walk back to Mohanji village.                      

Since we had had no lunch had nice hot tea with Chole Bhatura, vada and pesarattu. Felt really satisfied and happy. Went for the satsang where I sang two songs Later we met a person from Malaysia and ended up chatting with him for more than an hour. Jayanthi’s Acharya said that this place which is after the Sangam and in the land of Someshwar temple was more powerful than the actual sangam and it is good to take dips here.

Left early in the morning for the airport dropping off Jayanthi on the way. We could not see any of the temples or the Akhadas but were very happy that we got to do the Sangam dip comfortably which was the main thing. 

My thoughts

As I reflect on this largest gathering ever on earth of 400 million people over 40 days, I am amazed at the faith of the people in spirituality and Gods and feel happy that we are still connected to our culture as a nation. Overall the place I felt was vibrant and pulsating with energy. It  felt lovely to be in the company of people all aligned to a single purpose, trying to draw upon the possibility of spiritual upliftment. this is what they call "Satsang" I suppose. If I had known earlier I would have come here to stay for a week and imbibe and immerse more. But at least I got to do this much.

Lets look at the enormity of the event and the amazing organization behind the scenes.

  • The Mahakumbh in Prayagraj is a MasterClass in organization. And I think the world and especially people in India need to know about it and feel proud. Let me go through the data first
  •  A total of 160000 tents in tent city Hosting 2 million people at a time; Tent city 4000 hectares
  • There are 30 pontoon bridges built in the last 3 months
  • 4000 boats have been given licence; Safety inspection and lifejackets by govt - Approx. 40000 life jackets
  • 4.25 lakh electrical connections; 85 sub stations; 128 transformers; 50000 street poles; 7000 led lights; 85 back up generators
  • 12 km of ghats; 5 lakh metric tonnes of sand to create sangam area
  • 50000 Police personn
  •  2750 cc tv cameras; 328 AI enabled cameras; 20 high surveillance drones; Underwater drones; 4 anti drone systems
  • 150000 toilets
  • About 300 tonnes of sand had been put in the middle of the ganges to facilitate the floating platforms.

What about the cleanliness, crowds, sanitation, food ?

1.    Cleanliness – Inspite of so many people at one place, the entire area was quite clean. No spitting, no litter, no food junk anywhere. No urinating anywhere. No throwing foodstuff and flowers on the ground. Considering 40 million people walking this 10 sq kms everyday for 40 days this is a phenomenal achievement for India

2.    Toilet facilities – were excellent. We had to use one of the common ones and it was quite clean. Tented places have their own toilets. Wondering how they are managing the sewage.

3.   Spiritual organizations – Amazed at the number of spiritual organizations that were here. They had their own campuses and were self contained. And everyone of them had devotional music going on and serving  annadanam

4.    Spirituality and fun – At the same time there was a festive atmosphere with people just having fun. People have come in groups – I met one which had 21 family members that were here for Mahakumbh

5.   What drives these people – What is this faith and the yearning for something better, a devotion so strong that makes them brave the difficulties of walking many kms carrying their luggage and children in the hot sun without food or water. It was so humbling to see this.

6.    Policemen helpful – The policemen were polite and went out of their way to help and direct at great hardships to themselves

7.    Boats at sangam – Absolutely no fighting for space, peacefully everyone did their dips - no fighting, but organized chaos

8.    Food appearing magically – don’t see provisions coming in- there are extremely few cafes or food stalls. I think one of the reasons the place is clean. However every spiritual organization was providing Annadanam and water. Anybody who is hungry or thirsty can walk into any tent area and ask for food and he/she will be food. No one is going hungry or thirsty.

9.    Water and sanitation facility – There was enough drinking water available in the tent area. Sanitation in terms of toilets almost 150000 portable toilets were available everywhere and the surprising thing was they were quite clean considering the volume of people using it.

10 Ganges very clean – When taking the dip I found it was muddy but that’s it. No particle matter, no food, no flowers etc. After taking it in a bottle and keeping it for a day it was  crystal clear water

11 Triveni sangam – To reduce congestion at the nose point of the Sangam, the government had deposited over tonnes of sand in the middle of the sangam and installed floating platforms there. They also gave specific licenses to 4000 boatmen with mandatory lifejackets for people, so that they could take people to these platforms. This is a great idea and avoided the crowds.

The entire place was vibrant, energetic and  festive and an amazing  spiritual festival. So many people of all walks of life united with a single purpose and an unwavering faith and wanting to touch or reach out to that little bit more of the spiritual elixir. I came away deeply touched, humbled and proud of our culture and depth of spirituality.

Hints to make your trip better

1. Flight tickets better from Varanasi or Lucknow but at the end of the day I fell it is better to book direct to Prayagraj and back because you have to brave the traffic from Varanasi to Prayagraj which is unpredictable.

2. If you do decide to go to Varanasi or Lucknow and travel here by car then leave at 4 am or before and don’t stop for breakfast on the way

3. Everything takes time, so ensure you have given yourself enough time. Going to Triveni Sangam and coming back to your tent is about 3-4 hours

4. You will walk a lot, and I mean a lot. We ended up walking 15 km first day and 10 km next day.  So get good walking shoes or good slippers

5. Wherever you are moving around you don’t easily get food. So have a small back pack with water, snacks and banana

6. Its hot during day and cold at night so plan your wardrobe acc.

7. Be prepared for crowds everywhere but unless you are going to Sangam area, it is not the jostling unable to breathe sort of crowds. If you are visiting any temples plan to do so early in the morning before 530am or at night around 10pm

8. Pontoon bridges are one way so you will end up walking more on your return especially if there is a VIP visiting maybe about 2-3 km more

9. The Triveni Sangam with floating platforms are really well thought out. You need to walk to Arail Ghat and a little further from there where you will find boats. Typically Rs 1500 for 3 people with the boat dedicated to you. Fix beforehand if possible. He will take you to the middle of the river where it is easy to have the dip, change and return. Not crowded at all.

10. Connectivity and power – Not a problem at all. But carry a battery pack.

Things to do and See

 Many things to do and see in Prayagraj. However  don’t get distracted by trying to see these during Mahakumbh. The purpose is to have a dip and imbibe the energy of the place.  Do these only if you have time after your dips in the Sangam.

1.    Vasuki temple -The Nagavasuki temple is an important Hindu Temple dedicated to Lord Vasuki, king of snakes. It is believed to relieve Kaal Sarpa Dosha astrological difficulties. The temple's origins trace back to Lord Vasuki resting here after churning the ocean of milk in vedic times. 

2.    Lete hanuman temple - It is said that after the victory over Lanka, when Hanumanji was returning, he felt tired on the way. So at the behest of Sita Mata, he lay down here on the banks of the Sangam. This temple is believed to be at least 600-700 years old

3.    Someshwar temple -Someshwar Mahadev Mandir situated in Arail village is one of the eight important tirthsthalas of Prayagraj. This temple finds mention in the Padma Purana, Shiva Purana and is worshipped by all the devotees who participate in the Kumbh.

4.    Adi shankara temple - Shankar Viman Mandapam. Located north of the Triveni Sangam on the right banks of river Ganga, this four story temple is built in memory of Adi Shankaracharya.

5.    Treta yuga tree - The Akshay Vat is a sacred banyan tree that is said to be from the Treta Yuga. According to legend, Sita Devi offered oblations to Dashrath Maharaj under this tree. When Lord Rama arrived, he asked for a witness, and the tree was the only one to speak. The tree was blessed to have great importance in the future.

6.    Adi Beni Madhav temple - Lord Vishnu’s and Mother Lakshmi’s temple. The place hosting 115 million parthiv Shiva lingams (Shiva lingams made from soil from a holy river bank that are ) en route to the Adi Beni Madhav temple.

7.    Akhadas - In each Mahakumbh, there is a special group of Akhadas that are given the first priority in many aspects. These Akhadas are the traditional religious sects of sadhus that bring them together, impart knowledge, help people realise the spiritual energy inside them, and much more. Back in the day, when India fought against invaders and looters, it is said that the Sadhus of these Akhadas fought tooth and nail to protect the Hindu faith.

Sunday, August 19, 2018

Kailash Trip July 31st to August 14, 2018 with Isha



Kailash Trip July 31st to August 14, 2018 with Isha


I had always wanted to visit Kailash Mansarovar and would plan half heartedly each year and then drop it. This year I decided to make the move more decisively and registered with Isha Sacred Walks. The team in Isha guided us each step of the way – sending us the info required for the visa, the medical check up to be done, the list of medicines to be carried, the checklist of items to be taken were all sent to us. Given my hectic schedule of work, and board meetings I was barely getting time to put all this together. They had also asked us to follow the practices (Isha yoga etc) for at least 2 months prior to prepare ourselves. It was a hectic week packing and collecting all the things in the checklist. The route we were to take was as follows. Dirapuk is at the base of Mt Kailash.


The route to Kailash

30th July, Monday – Day 0 -  Bangalore to Delhi and Delhi to Kathmandu

Left in the morning with a lot of anxiety particularly about the altitude sickness part having experienced it last year in Leh. I had followed instructions to start Diamox 5 days before travel and drink 3 litres of water everyday. Left early in the morning at 5 am to catch the Delhi flight and then the flight to Kathmandu. Landed on time and went to the Isha counter. We were welcomed with garlands at the airport. Sense of anticipation started building up.


Arriving in Kathmandu  airport

Checked in to the Yak and Yeti hotel – extremely nice and large 5 star hotel. We went for a long walk to Thamel which was filled with shops for trekkers. Stopped at a small place for masala tea and cakes which were extremely good.

31st July, Tuesday – Day 1 - In Kathmandu; Altitude – 4200 feet
Time difference 15 minutes ahead of India


Woke up at 7 did my sadhana and had a relaxed breakfast and took some pics of the hotel grounds.

Leaving for Lhasa from Kathmandu

Afternoon was spent in collecting duffel bags, back packs, down jackets, medical check-up after lunch. Evening we had a satsang with Sadhguru telling us how to prepare for the trip and to follow the four basic rules 1. Follow your rules 2. Be responsible for everything 3. Whatever is happening at the moment is what is and meant to be 4. I am not the body and I am not the mind.

We converted rupees into Yuans – conversion is 1 yuan = 11.25 rupees.  After dinner packed everything into the duffel bag from the suitcase; had to leave a few things behind.  Meanwhile had met Rachna in the afternoon and we became roomies for the rest of the trip.

1st August Wed – Day 2 - Kathmandu to Lhasa by flight 1 hour 15 minutes

Kathmandu altitude – 4200 feet; Lhasa – 12000 feet

Had a very light breakfast because I wanted to land in Lhasa on a light stomach.  Lot of confusion and hassle putting our duffel bags into the bus identifying bags, checking in and boarding. Landed in Lhasa and immigration, bag collection took 2 hours for all of us. Lack of knowledge of Chinese made it very difficult. 

Reached the Hotel Lhasa Mansarovar in the evening at 5 and was welcomed with hot  Pakodas and masala tea. On to the room, unpacked and then down for medical check-up and dinner. For some strange reason my watch stopped and I put it away. My worries on the altitude sickness was unfounded and I was a little more relaxed after having landed at Lhasa.
Rachna and I at Kathmandu airport. My roomie for the trip and a good friend now

Kathmandu to Lhasa flight – you can see Mt Everest in the distance

In Lhasa Yak and Yeti hotel

2nd August Thursday – Day 3 - In Lhasa ; Altitude – 12000 feet
Tine difference – 2.5 hours ahead of India
Wake up call at 6 am followed by practices and breakfast. Masala and cardamom tea was excellent – however only bread or cereal available for breakfast. The nice looking buns were non-veg. Followed by Satsang where Sadhguru spoke about Tibet and Milarepa.

Lhasa
Beautiful infrastructure, excellent clean roads, no litter, not even a wrapper. People are very spiritual. In Jokhang temple where there are huge crowds and shops, we didn’t see any litter anywhere . Saw a lot of people prostrating or praying in the rain. Lot of construction work going on around Lhasa – influence of Chinese perfection everywhere. The temple was extremely crowded with all the various gods, Avalokiteswara, Tsonseng Rampo meditation cave and numerous others almost like our Tamilian Alwars. No rituals like in our temples. Not sure how or what they consecrate in these temples. We must have walked about 1-2 km to see this and then went on to see the summer palace where we had to walk another 3-4 kms. I think the intention was to get us acclimatized. 

In front of Jokhang temple people prostrating and praying

Jokhang Temple

Evening we went to  see the Potala palace - was the residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. It is now a museum and World Heritage Site.The palace is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical abode of the bodhisattva AvalokiteÅ›vara. The building measures 400 metres east-west and 350 metres north-south, with sloping stone walls averaging 3 m. thick, and 5 m. (more than 16 ft) thick at the base, and with copper poured into the foundations to help proof it against earthquakes.Thirteen stories of buildings—containing over 1,000 rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues. Tradition has it that the three main hills of Lhasa represent the "Three Protectors of Tibet". Chokpori, just to the south of the Potala, is the soul-mountain of Vajrapani, Pongwari that of Manjusri, and Marpori, the hill on which the Potala stands, represents AvalokiteÅ›vara.


In front of Potala Palace

A Tibetan lady dressed up to go for a Puja (P.C. - Anand)

My BP was on the higher side because of the altitude and the doc doubled my usual dose.  I was glad I had Anand and Rachna for company – had the comfort of being with them when I wanted or being on my own when I wanted to.  Thank u guys for being there for me.

August 3rd, Friday – Day 4 - Lhasa to Shigatse – 6-7 hours bus drive
Shigatse altitude – 12000 feet

Morning wake up call at 6 followed by Guru Puja and Shambhavi. Packed duffel bags and left it out for the Sherpas to take.  Our schedule henceforth would be along these lines – wake up at 5.30, duffel bags out at 6.30, 7 to 8 practices, 8 to 9 breakfast and medical and then leave for the next stop.

Typical daily routine

At this point people started developing issues of altitude sickness. Rachna and  I were  medical volunteers for our bus. On the way we stop every 1.5 hours to stretch our legs , do Sukha Kriya, chant Brahmananda Swaroopa, do the rotation exercise for acclimatization. As we leave for Shigatse my heart is beating with a sense of anticipation and excitement. All like minded people on a spiritual quest – it felt wonderful being in company like this. Beautiful scenery throughout and would be so for the rest of the trip.

Tibet
Thousands of years ago Tibetans were every martial arts oriented people- this was 500 years before Buddha. Then Padmasambhava went there and taught them to be kind, generous, peace loving people. This actually lost them their purpose in life whereas while fighting they had a purpose. This was the Bon religion which lasted about 500 years, Then the Buddha came from India because Hinduism was taking strong roots in India. Buddhism was a combination of being kind generous, loving at the same time with a purpose in life. People took to this very fast. There is  also a school of thought which says that the Bon religion was revived in the 11th century along with the advent of Buddhism. According to a recent Chinese census, an estimated 10 percent of Tibetans follow Bon and there are 264 active Bon monasteries, convents, and hermitages.
The present spiritual head of the Bon is Lungtok Tenpa'i Nyima (1929–2017), who now presides over Pal Shen-ten Menri Ling in Dolanji in Himachal Pradesh, India, for the abbacy of which monastery he was selected in 1969.

Milarepa
We all know of him as the only person to have climbed Mt Kailash (he actually flew to the top of Mt Kailash). Sadhguru narrated his story. Milarepa was born in a family in which his father died at n early age. He, his sister and his mother therefore lived with his uncle and Milarepa was brought up by his uncle. His uncle used to torture the three of them and treated them very badly. Milarepa could not bear it any longer and ran away and learnt occult practices, When he came back he found his mother and sister dead – this fuelled his hated for his uncle even more. During a marriage function Milarepa used his occult powers to burn down the entire building where the marriage was taking place and more than 500 people died. Milarepa was filled with remorse and went in search f a guru. He hears about Marpa as an enlightened guru and requests him to take him as his disciple.  Marpa makes him do a lot of work for many years but does not teach him anything. Many others would come, get initiated and leave but not Milarepa. 25 years pass by and Milarepa is becoming old. When he is on the verge of committing suicide in despair, Marpa appears and and teaches him all he knows and puts him in a dark chamber to get enlightened – equivalent of Samadhi. – Buried alive in a dark chamber for many days, food is passed down everyday and plate given out every evening. If for 7 days no plate is returned then the person is dead.  Milarepa goes into the dark chamber and on the 3rd day has a vision of Daikin who tells him he needs to learn some more. Milarepa breaks open the chamber and asks Marpa who himself does not know. They go to a guru in India who teaches both of them and Marpa becomes Milarepa’s disciple. Milarepa is the only person to have ever climbed Mt Kailash – the story goes that he flew to the top of Mt Kailash.

We reached Shigatse in the evening after a 7 hour drive  with excellent lunch in between of puris, rajma, pulao, gulab jamun, apple and juice.  Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet. The quality of the hotel was very good – everything was painted in bright colours including the ceiling and the rooms.

We went for a walk to a nearby park and sat there and chanted the Mrityunjaya mantra. Beautiful play area and a group of women put up a typical Tibetan dance.


A Tibetan/Chinese dance in Shigatse




Colourful interiors of the Hotel in Shigatse – Geysar Hotel


Things to take care of for Altitude sickness

1. Deep inhalation hold for 5 secs and let out slowly through pursed lips. Do 15 times
2. ½ a diamox 125 mg morning and evening everyday starting 5 days before the trip
3. Drink 3 litres of water minimum everyday
4. Continue Diamox till you come back down
5. Sukha kkriya ((Anulom Vilom) every 1.5 hours for 15 minutes
6. Castor oil in the nostril for dryness
7. Smell camphor for better oxygenation (we used Amrutanjan strong)
8. Keep arms parallel to ground and rotate in a clockwise direction slowly 10 to 15 times
        to acclimatize
9. If there is headache Diamox can be increased to one tablet and water intake can be
        increased.
10. Take 3 times your normal BP medicine f you are hypertensive as BP tends to go up 
        and you may need to take additional dosages


August 4th Saturday – Day 5 - Shigatse to Saga – 500 kms and 11 hours bus drive
Saga altitude – 15000 feet

On the way to Saga today after breakfast and medical check-up. Rooms becoming smaller, weather colder, altitude higher, bathrooms barer, air rarer…….

Did medical check- up for everyone in the bus, Stunning scenery all along- play of clouds, hills, valleys, plains occasionally dotted with yellow dandelions/daffodils – layers and layers of these. No trees at this altitude. Yaks and Sheep grazing precariously on the slopes – can also see wild dogs. Stopped for lunch at a stunning location – hills surrounding us in brown, pink, purple colours with a pristine still lake in front. Lunch was again excellent puri, rajma, cauliflower/potato, pulao, rasagolla, apple, juice. As we move closer to Saga we can see snow capped mountains making their appearance. Drinking lots of water meant many loo breaks – “men on right women on left”” – we stop whenever we find an embankment or a wall for the ladies.  Reached Saga after 11 hours of travel – dinner was Khichdi - comfort food. We had to walk very slowly to conserve our breath. The last one hour was a sudden descent which gave lot of people problems. Went to sleep at 1130 and woke up at 430 for practices at 6. Everything is solar powered here – all vehicles, power, water etc. Probably the last bath we will have in 4 days.

Many people now down with issues of cough, cold, fever, loose motions, insomnia etc. I am getting mentally prepared for the drive to Mansarovar and Kailash and the sense of anticipation and suppressed excitement heightens. I write down a set of instructions to myself.

Instructions to myself

1    1.       No expectations
2.       Don’t keep asking and praying for things to Sadhguru and Sai baba – surrender
3.       Don’t compare with others – this is your journey – not a copy of theirs
4.       Whatever has to happen will happen to you
5.       Leave your heart in Kailash and your body will follow
6.       Relax, stay alert, be receptive
7.       Go within don’t watch without
8.       Let go !
9.       Go as a piece of life
10.     This journey is just you and him and nobody else matters

5th August Sunday – Day 6 - Saga to Mansarovar 7 hours bus drive
Mansarovar height - 15500 feet

Absolutely stunning scenery, photographs don’t do it justice. Excited ! So far I have been doing well. Hope it lasts. Hills are quite stark now with the same green brown, pink, purple designs. Started putting Isha songs in the bus and the Bho Shambho was very moving – I feel quite teary eyed and keep reminding myself about the “Instructions to Myself “. As we keep stopping for our open loo breaks all inhibitions gone in the pressure of natures call.  We reach the Mansarovar settlement in the evening around 5. It’s  an enclosed space with many rooms and toilets in pits in tents. We are about 30 feet from the lake. We have been told not to touch the water till the process is done and not to go out of the settlement after 8 as there are wild dogs. The lake looks like any other lake. We are 7 in a room, there are 2 huge tents – one for satsang and practices and one for food.  It was cold now probably 4 or 5 degrees and we all had our gear out. Post dinner we were asked to be ready for the process in the morning.

Mansarovar lake in the evening

6th August Monday – Day 7 – at Mansarovar

I woke up early in the morning at 2.15 am to try and see the mystical lights over Mansarovar. It was cold, raining – waited for about 15 minutes but could not see anything and went back to sleep. Morning heard that quite a few people who had been awake from 230 to 4 had seen the lights.  Morning we completed our practices and went to the lake for the process. We could not go into the lake for a dip as the Tibetan authorities have forbidden this. We went through a process of chanting -  This process changes the chemistry in your body so that you are able to bear the cold of the water. Water must have been 3 to 4 degrees temp. The lake is supposed to be the meeting place for all astral beings but is not a spiritually energized lake. Sadhguru explained that he has been seeing these beings visit for many years but has not been able to figure out the purpose. He also said while we know about the individual and the universal energy, these beings were cluster of beings which were very different from what he knows. There is also activity within the lake depths that he can see – some of them translucent some of them transparent but always visiting in the mid of night.  After the process we had to pour mugs of the ice cold water from buckets on ourselves. It was so cold that the breath stopped.  The process was beautiful and serene as we chanted Aum Namah Shivaya on the banks of the Mansarovar. I tried to do meditation multiple times sitting on the banks of the lake.
Lake Manasarovar lies at 4,590 m (15,060 ft) above mean sea level, a relatively high elevation for a large freshwater lake. Lake Manasarovar is relatively round in shape with the circumference of 88 km (54.7 mi). Its depth reaches a maximum depth of 90 m (300 ft and its surface area is 320 km2 (123.6 sq mi). It is connected to nearby Lake Rakshastal by the natural Ganga Chhu channel. Sadhguru explained that the origins are from the Ocean Titus which flowed back into the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal when the land form currently India joined the main landforms to form the Himalayas. Lake Mansarovar is the remnant of Ocean Titus. In Hinduism, Lake Manasarovar is a personification of purity, and one who drinks water from the lake will go to the abode of Shiva after death. He is believed to be cleansed of all his sins committed over even a hundred lifetimes. It is called "Manasa sarovaram", which is a combination of the Sanskrit words for "mind" and "lake". While Manasarovar remains calm and peaceful and a freshwater lake, Rakshas Tal close by is saline and stormy and dark. Both these lakes represent the good and evil co-existence.
We managed to quickly change after this and went for breakfast.  Satsang, practices, and lunch. 

Mansarovar lake in the morning

7th August Tuesday – Day 8 - Mansarovar to Darchen; Darchen to Mt Kailash, Dirapuk trek 16 kms
15000 ft to 17000 ft

Woke up at 3 am to see the lights again over Mansarovar – waited for an hour but no luck.  I think it requires a lot of concentration and patience. S1 team had arrived and the toilet pits were now stinkier. After a lot of delays we reached Darchen  by bus. We had to go in groups of 4 with one oxygen cylinder with us. We started the trek at 1230 from Yama Dwar.

Gateway of the God of Death, this is the place of entering the abode of Lord Shiva. Tibetans call 'Tarboche' for Yam Dwar. They believe that Tarboche is the place from where they start circumnambulation of their deity's home. To visit Shiva's home, one must pass through the Yama Dwar. 'Yama' is the lord of death and 'Dwar' means gate. Yama, who brings mortal souls to his haven and make judgment of one's merit & sin, then release for onward cosmic journey, It is said, the real entry from this gate can be made after emancipating the soul from mortal world. 

Yama Dwar – Gateway to Shiva’s abode

Indescribable scenery, hills covered by mist, river gurgling away, sun occasionally coming out. Light drizzle. After every few steps had to take a deep breath. With four layers + down jacket and the raincoat and the backpack the trek was not easy. Kept chanting Shiva Shambho thru the trek. I was conscious of what Sadhguru had said that we are treading on Shiva’s body and should walk accordingly with care and devotion. Half way through we saw the West side of Mt Kailash. I was moved to tears  - the sight was so overwhelming. The trek was beautiful – I took my time and enjoyed it. The thought that we are walking towards Mt Kailash gave a different quality to the trek.  Suddenly the realization dawned on me that like this trek, each one of our life  journeys is different.  In focusing on reaching the destination quickly and comparing progress/ experiences of others we miss out on the beauty of our journey. Each person’s spiritual progress is his/her own and between him/her and Shiva.

Mt Kailash, Dirapuk – reached the enclosure after 6.5 hours trek. Our room had a direct view of Mt Kailash. The mountain itself was covered by mist and we could see it only partially.  The pillows and sheets were ice cold. Dinner was nice hot Khichdi and Kadi and was amazing. Toilets in Mt Kailash were pits on the ground behind a wall separately for men and women.

Arrangements by Isha

A special note on the wonderful arrangements made by Isha for us. They took care of us with the utmost devotion and in the words of one of our yatris, we were treated like ‘babies’. There are 21 groups of 75 people each coming to Kailash thru Isha this year over the next 2 months.  Isha flies its cooks to be stationed at Lhasa, Shigatse, Saga, Mansarovar, Darchen and Mt Kailash to cook Indian food for us.  Isha also has doctors travelling along with us, with one doctor for each batch supported by station doctors in Lhasa, Shigatse, Saga, Mansarovar and Kailash who stay there for 2 months and help out till the last batch is done. Apart from this the coordination with the Sherpas to pick up and drop  our duffel bags to our rooms and transport, ensuring good food for us, coordination with the bus drivers is unbelievable. Every bus has 20 people with basics like water, oxygen cylinder, one Sherpa and one medical coordinator.

8th August, Wednesday – Day 9 - Mt Kailash, Dirapuk., 17000 ft

Early morning 4 am wanted to go to the toilet. It was pitch dark and snowing. Every time you had to use the loo you have to get out from under the warm blanket and cover yourself up including water proof gloves, take the torch and find your way to the pit 50 feet away trudging thru snow ad ice cold water balancing tissue paper and wipes in your hand. By the time you are done and back you are panting and need 5 minutes for breath to settle. Early morning 5 am was as usual wake up call, practices, medical check, Satsang and breakfast.  We went to Milarepa’s monastery in the morning. The view of Mt Kailash from here was  awesome.

Mt Kailash as seen from Milarepa’s monastery

Video Credit - Anand

We did a process in front of Mt Kailash in the afternoon. It was magical. As I was gazing at the mountain the snow seemed to stand out in 3 D shape in and out continuously and the surrounding hill seemed to have bright and dark areas. It may well be because I was staring so intensely. Post the process sat and did meditation for sometime.  I am realizing I need to practice meditation more often as my power of concentration and visualization is quite poor. S1 group joined us at night and the battle for the pits continued.

After the group process in front of Mt Kailash




9th August Thursday – Day 10 - Mt Kailash

I woke up at 5 and did a meditation for 30 minutes in the silence. It was very nice. Early morning is the right time to do it and I resolved I would practice this henceforth. I had been lucky and by the grace of all the divine beings I had less problems compared to many others who had insomnia, cough, cold, headache, fever, loose motions etc. After breakfast and practices we left for the trek back. It was cold, windy, drizzling…..but the landscape was stunning. This trek I resolved to do slowly , alone, taking my time and enjoying every bit. Om Nama Shivaya chant was there automatically on my lips . I felt I was leaving behind something precious – my heart felt full and I was filled with happiness – I didn’t want the trek to end. I kept stopping and looking at the scenery very often and taking the entire trek at the slowest pace possible. One of the best treks ever. The streams have increased, more flowers are blooming and we see some very friendly Marmots on the way as well as very persistent sparrows which wanted some food and would sit on top of our heads till we gave it something.

Reached Darchen and slept for 1.5 hours – had a bath the first after 4 days and then dinner. We wandered around Darchen and bought some trinkets.

10th August Friday – Day 11 - Darchen to Saga – 14 hours bus drive
16500 ft to 15000 ft

Early morning routine – today no water in the bathroom– had to run around for a mug. Everything got delayed. However all this was taken in the stride with the warm lovely feeling of the visit to Mt Kailash still within us.  Finally we leave at 915 for Saga. On the way there was a truck which had got stuck and we got delayed at this place for 4 hours. But with a bus load of happy people we did not feel the time passing.. Finally an alternative route was found and we had to get off the bus and walk around – the sand was soft and like quicksand – no wonder the truck had got stuck. By the time we reached the hotel it was 11.30 and dark and raining. Sunset in all these places was at 8.30-9 pm only. The drives were fun, with us listening to Mahabaratha or singing songs and handing out snacks or stopping for bathroom breaks. The roads were excellent, clear with undulating hills all around and the Brahmapura following us. Hardly any traffic on the roads except our bus and our driver kept a steady pace throughout. Throughout our journey we were asked not to sleep because of the altitude climb hence we would keep waking each other up.

Reached familiar Saga hotel at 1130  had dinner and went to sleep at 1230. What a difference from on our way up – then we would walk slowly and continue to breath deeply – now we were practically running up and down.

Yellow Daffodils all along the way



Just the straight road and us

11Th August Saturday – Day 12 - Saga to Shigatse – 8 hour bus drive
15000 ft to 12000 ft

Today we are allowed to sleep on the bus. On the way we got stuck in at least 4 places because of landslides or breakdowns. Brahmapura was in spate and a sight to behold – the brown coloured river was gushing through a level 4 rapid level. Lunch break was at the same place as the way up with the pristine lake and hills purple and pink around.We have been doing the Sadhguru presence at 620 pm everyday. Shigatse we are back to the same hotel – here everything is painted beautifully including the doors to the rooms.

The Brahmaputra in spate


Bus 4 group

12th August Sunday – Day 13 - Shigatse to Lhasa – 7 hour bus drive
12000 ft to 12000 ft

Today we get an extra hour of sleep. After our morning schedule we leave at 915.  Weather today is quite bright, sun is out and we see a lot of pink flowers on the way. In 4 days a big change – more pink and yellow flowers, more streams, Brahmaputra volume increased, more landslides and breakdowns on the way. On the way to Lhasa we prepare for our skit and also planned to have a Tibetan Dinner out. Reaching the hotel by 5.30 we leave at 7 for the restaurant. Finding the place is a big job by itself – google maps does not work properly, we don’t know the language , flagging down taxis we show a picture of the Chinese translation of the place and finally reach the restaurant. I had spoken to Nam Don the proprietor of the restaurant -  Tibetan Family Kitchen. The ambience looks very ordinary but the food was excellent and we all really enjoyed it. Eggplant salad, Thuppa, momos,  potato fry, curd and peanut, beans fry, fried rice, noodles and vegetables,. Nam Don took good care service was quick, food delicious and she got us cabs to return to the hotel which was 1/3 rd the price we had paid while coming. Reached the hotel and went to sleep at 1130 after packing.

At the Tibetan Family Kitchen Restaurant

13th August Monday – Day 14 - Lhasa to Kathmandu flight

Wake up at 5 am and the usual routine and leave for airport at 745. Getting bags sorted out and 75 people in line and into the airport took quite some time and we reached the boarding area at 1050 for the flight at 1110. Boarded and left at 1130 and reached Kathmandu but because of poor visibility had to return to Lhasa.  We had to stay in the aircraft while refuelling was done. Spontaneously we started singing songs with claps all around. Some foreigners seeing this also joined the fun with the instruments they had. The pilots, and stewards also joined the fun and took videos. By this time everyone was hungry and they passed around whatever snacks they had brought. After 30 minutes we left again for Kathmandu and landed without any incident. But this cost us 3 hours.  Went through Customs/ Immigration and went to Hotel Annapurna and had a great late lunch with Gulab Jamun and icecream. We boarded the bus again for the Satsang with Sadhguru in the Forest resort 10 kms away. It took us 1.5 hours to reach there – huge traffic, bad roads, huge potholes, slushy ground, rain all added to the delay. I will never again complain about Indian Roads. We had the Satsang with Sadhguru along with the A3 batch. I got up to read the poem I had written but for some reason my voice choked up and I barely got through the reading of the poem.. My heart was thumping and I could not talk – I stumbled through the reading of the poem. 

We took photos with Sadhguru and left back to the hotel. Dinner and to sleep at 11. Sadhguru said that at the end of this there should be at least one thing that we leave behnd and that should be anger. He wanted us to resolve that we will not get angry or if that’s difficult we will not say any angry words. I have resolved that I will not get irritated and If I do I will not show my irritation – I don’t get angry anyway. Also to look at changing my attitude from one of anxiety to looking at the positive side of things only – half full glass. Second  is to get up at 5.30 everyday and follow my practices come what may with added 20 minutes of meditation.

14th August Tuesday – Day 15 - Kathmandu

Morning we started our session at 630. People shared their experiences post which we enacted our skits. It was great fun with everyone taking off on the Diamox effect. We concluded with Guru pooja – I was in tears at the end of this – moving experience. Danced to Alai alai song and hugged everyone – emotional and sad that this had come to an end – such wonderful people and what a wonderful trip. The Isha volunteers, Pooja Akka, the coordinators, the doctors, the station doctors, the Sherpas, the drivers all worked very hard to make this a success for us - Big Pranams to all of them. To Sadguru for making this happen and making it a wonderful experience for me. It is a miracle that I did not have any of the issues that others had which I would normally have had and have a tendency to get.

I don’t know in what way Kailash has touched me but for sure the trip was great and the friends I made worth it. It was easy for me and grateful to Sai baba and Sadhguru and all the gurus who made it easy for me. Seeing everyone and hearing their personal stories I feel so blessed and grateful for all that the gods have showered on me. While I would like to visit Kailash again and do the Parikrama doing just Kailash with Isha was special. Goodbye and I hope I carry a part of Kailash and HIS energy in my heart forever.

Three poems that I wrote and would like to share.

Shiva

Shiva is the most amazing
Is he a Person ? animal? Thing?
He is that which is not
Therefore I know him not

We know he is formless
We know he is voiceless
We know he is bodiless
We know he is nothingness

We know he is here
We know he is there
We know he is everywhere
We know he is nowhere

He can be joyous
He can be furious
He is in the breath
He is in the death

Blessed are those
Who have experienced so
Blessed are those
Who KNOW this is so

I yearn to get a glimpse
A drop of that experience
Personified as the  linga
Oh shiva shiva mahadeva

The Divine

There is a sense of wonderment
At the beauty of the present
Everything is perfect
Everything is exact

The blooming of the flower
The fragrance in the bower
Millions of insects in the garden
Teeming with life in abandon

The fluffy white clouds floating
A pattern that gets you guessing
This moment it is something
And the next moment nothing

The trees, clouds just are
So intensely aware
A sense of deep stillness
Just remaining a witness.

The mystery of the universe
With stars and galaxies so diverse
Forming, evolving, creating
Expanding, Bursting, dissolving

The complexity of the human body
Something we cannot grasp fully
The miracle of human evolution
The mystery of human dissolution

The divine in every atom and cell
The divine in each dust particle
The divine in the vastness of the universe
The divine in all the empty spaces

The divine in the blooming flower
The divine in the monsoon shower
The divine in the whispering breeze
The divine in the dancing leaves

The divine in the sunrise and sunset
The divine in every single breath
The divine here and everywhere
The divine that is there and nowhere

A  longing to know your presence
And experience the essence
To know the rapturous ecstasy
Which so far has only been a fantasy.

The mystical magic of his presence
Absolute stillness being the essence
When this moment is a tremendous possibility
Let your grace be upon me.

The Journey to Kailash

Our hearts filled with excitement
Anticipation the uppermost sentiment
Bustling around making friends
Packing, repacking bacpacks and duffel bags.

The journey to Kailash is 1500 kms
Every stop reached after long drives
Breathtaking scenery all around
Makes our hearts with joy rebound

As we drive towards our ultimate goal
And watch the stunning scenery unfold
Miles  of undulating hills
Indescribable beauty with no frills

As sickness overtakes some
Discomfort makes the drives tiresome
While the body tries to cope
The spriit comes to the fore

Rains, mist, wind chills
Slowly walking with multiple rests
The mind is fixed unwavering
Bodily travails minimizing

The hills  a mute witness
Playing hide and seek with the clouds
Shadow spangled play on their sides
With ice and snow glistening patterns

The stream gurgles along merrily
Yellow flowers swaying happily
Look upon the lot of travellers wearily
Giving them succour in their journey

Walking into the heavenly abode
The first sight lightens the load
Fills the heart and mind with energy
Pulsating waves surround gently

The heart and soul melts
And dissolve into copious tears
The spiritual yearning strengthens
And the sleeping giant awakens.

Dawning of the realization
That the journey is the destination
Everyone at their own pace
According to Shivas design and grace

What has to happen will happen
As per Shiva's will and lesson
Life, an unbreakable bond between two
Actors are just, HIM ad you.

My heart is suddenly filled
With happiness and everything good
I return with lightness and a new start
A part of Kailash in my heart.

Thank you and I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it.
Aum Namah Shivaya !